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It won’t happen to me

First frost of the year has arrived, the leaves are changing quickly as we prepare for the winter change. The ground has become a place of concern, with tracks becoming slippery and water levels increasing in some places.

It is great to hear of the support our fencing and other agricultural contracting colleagues have been providing the East Coast and Hawke’s Bay in a time of need as I travel up that way currently. There is a lot of hard work ahead of these guys, and our thoughts are with the farmers that have lost much from the cyclone. Reach out and talk to your friends over there; they would appreciate a friendly ear, I’m sure.

On the safety front 

We have had several serious harm incidents that are of concern when using tools, vehicles, and machinery.

WorkSafe is urging farmers and contractors to lose the “it won’t happen to me” mentality, following a spate of machinery-related fatalities this year.

 

According to figures supplied by WorkSafe NZ, five people died in farm accidents in the first ten weeks of 2023. In that period, there were also 30 notifiable injuries. This year’s deaths are predominately the result of tractor and quad bike rollovers.

WorkSafe is conscious of the “unprecedented stress” some farmers are under, particularly those affected by the recent cyclones. When under stress, it is even more important that farmers and contractors take time to plan for how to deal with the aftermath.

The simple grease gun is not so simple anymore

One such event, involving a Grease Gun for an excavator contractor, has had a terrible outcome for the user. A quick check-over, fuel up, and grease to the machine, like any normal day. The day was a bit wet and slippery, and the contractor was running behind, with plenty of work building up. He slipped while trying to get the jump on the day’s work – pushing in tracks with his excavator. The tracks were slippery and he fell while trying to insert grease into the required location. With no gloves on, the grease fired into his hand. The pain was almost immediate but hard to see.

The day turned into a helicopter rescue and a hospital stay, with extreme pain. An injection of the grease into the hand has caused life-changing effects and amputation of the finger that received the injury. The grease had made a pinhole entry into the hand, penetrated the bone and traveled swiftly up the arm cavity. Initially in the finger, but the damage was severe.

Proper tool use and care

Whether you are using a manual, battery-operated, air-powered or AC electric grease gun, the high pressure developed by the tool should be considered. High pressure can develop in different ways.

High-pressure injection injuries may be caused by accidental injection of grease through the skin and into the underlying tissue. Generally, fingers or hands experience this type of injury, which is most likely to occur when a hose ruptures. Also, some lubrication applications require needle-type accessories that can lead to an injury if used improperly.

An injection injury may be very small and essentially painless, and the injured person may be tempted to continue working. However, if you receive any type of injection injury, you should seek medical attention immediately.

The lubricant will need to be removed and treatment initiated to prevent infection. If possible, provide the medical technician with the brand of grease or oil involved so that the manufacturer can be contacted regarding the possible toxicity of the lubricant.

Keep grease guns clean and working correctly. All repairs should be performed by a competent person. When lubrication tasks are performed, grease often gets on your hands, so be sure to wash them to remove any chemical residue.

Ensure the use of PPE at all times – good gloves are essential, and eye protection. Use hearing protection if using a battery, or compressor type of grease gun.

Personal safety

Stay alert while using a grease gun. You should never operate any tool if you are tired or impaired by a substance, as a moment of inattention may result in serious personal injury.

Although the use of grease guns is widespread, these tools deserve respect and should be used in accordance with the manufacturer’s safety guidelines to avoid injury. They are not to be used in jest: be careful where you point them and how they are used.

How to operate a grease gun safely 

There are four main types of grease guns: manual, battery-operated, air-powered and AC electric.

Each type has its own specific set of guidelines, but many general rules are applicable to all, such as training, proper tool use and care, work area safety and personal safety. 

Manual grease guns include lever-action and pistol-grip models. These popular tools are widely used and are the most economical type of grease gun. Manual grease guns can achieve pressures up to 10,000 pounds per square inch (psi), while plug-valve sealant guns can reach 15,000 psi.

Battery-operated grease guns are ideal for speeding up routine lubrication tasks. Using this type of grease gun can also help to minimise operator fatigue. These grease guns are rated anywhere from 6,000 to 10,000 psi, depending on the model.

Air-powered or pneumatic grease guns use compressed air to apply pressure to an air piston, which drives the grease piston and forces lubricant out of the coupler into a grease fitting. By depressing the gun’s trigger, a steady flow of lubricant is dispensed. Typically, pneumatic grease guns are rated up to 6,000 psi.

AC electric or corded grease guns provide a consistent flow of grease and are often used as an alternative to air-powered tools. AC electric grease guns generally are rated up to 7,000 psi.

Training

Effective lubrication requires specific training, ranging from the actual physical activity of applying the lubricant to the effects of misapplication, including spills and damage to machinery. The operator should be trained on each piece of equipment to be lubricated, as well as each grease gun that will be used to accomplish the task.

Some general rules of lubrication also should be considered.

  1. DO NOT apply lubricants to a machine in operation unless the fittings are located in a safe place.
  2. Never reach over, under, through, or past moving parts of the equipment to complete your task. You should maintain proper footing and balance at all times to facilitate better control of the tool in unexpected situations.

Work Area Safety

Regardless of the type of grease gun, it is important to keep your work area clean and well-lit. 

Wipe up lubricant spills immediately, or use absorbent drying pads or granules. Sources of lubricant leaks should be repaired to maintain a safe environment.

If you are using a power tool, make sure that the area is free of flammable liquids, gases, or dust, which may be ignited if the tool creates a spark.

In addition, power tools should not be exposed to rain or wet conditions, and care should be taken to prevent cord damage, as this can increase the risk of electric shock.

Minimise distractions, such as bystanders, while operating your grease gun, as they may divert your attention from the task at hand. NEVER PLAY AROUND WITH OR USE A GREASE GUN FOR PRACTICAL JOKES.

Safety features are available, and precautions can be taken to minimise the risk involved in using high-pressure grease guns. 

The key is to use the right tool for the job. 

DO NOT improvise or change the grease gun configuration for any purpose other than that which was intended.

It is critical that all of the components utilised are rated for the amount of pressure being applied, so you should use only hoses specified by the grease gun manufacturer. For example, if your grease gun is rated at 10,000 psi and your hose is only rated at 1,500 psi, the situation can become hazardous very quickly.

Inspect the hose between the grease gun and the coupler before each use, if there are any signs of wear or damage on the hose, do not use it. When a grease cartridge is loaded into the grease gun, the follower rod should be securely latched to the end cap, so it doesn’t spring back unexpectedly.

Use care when removing the pull-tab on the cartridge to prevent getting cut by the tab’s sharp edges. In addition, always aim the grease coupler away from your body when loading and priming the grease gun. You don’t want to take any chances that grease may get into your eyes. Grease guns are equipped with safety devices, but their effectiveness may be limited by the positioning of grease nipples on certain cars and trucks. Grease guns with needles should have a protective shroud or cover that prevents this type of accidental injury.

Battery-operated grease guns have a few safety guidelines of their own. 

  • The power switch should be in the off position before inserting the battery pack.
  • The battery pack should always be disconnected from the grease gun before changing accessories or unscrewing the grease cylinder from the gun. Never attempt to open the battery pack or expose it to water.
  • When not in use, keep the battery pack away from metal objects such as paper clips, coins, keys, nails, screws, or other small items that can make a connection from one terminal to another.
  • When using a battery charger, use only the charger specified by the manufacturer. Ensure that the cord is situated so it will not be stepped on, tripped over or otherwise subjected to stress.
  • DO NOT operate the charger with a damaged cord or plug, or if it has received a sharp blow or been dropped. You should also refrain from charging batteries or using any electrical (corded) grease gun in damp areas.
  • Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions before using your grease gun. Avoid kinking hoses, as this can weaken them and make them more susceptible to ruptures.

Battery-operated, air-powered, and AC electric grease guns can build extreme pressures, which may not be evident to the user. Therefore, extra caution should be taken with these tools. Never exceed the maximum input air pressure on pneumatic tools.

Most of these grease guns run at a 40-to-1 grease pressure-to-air ratio, so substantial pressure is created with a relatively low input air pressure.

Read your manual and have emergency items to get help: Personal Locator Beacons, and first aid items. 

Whatever your tool, ensure the safety and training to use is front of mind – always. One slip is all it takes to change the day. 

‘The standard you walk past in safety, is the standard you set.’

Take care out there team.   

Article supplied by Ruralsafe
www.ruralsafe.co.nz

 

Published in the Business, Health & Safety, Environment Feature in WIRED Issue 69 / June 2023 by Fencing Contractors NZ

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How to: Gravity Retaining Walls

In our fifth installment of our retaining walls feature, Nick Liefting takes us through the complexities of Gravity Walls.

In the article, I would like to explain the types of Gravity Wall, also known as Mass Walls, and their respective applications.

Different Types:

  1. Masonry Block Wall
  2. Mass Block Wall
  3. Gabion Wall
  4. Segmental Wall
  5. Crib Wall
  6. Mechanically Stabilised Earth Wall (MSE)
  7. Cast-in-situ Concrete Wall

Applications:

  • Where drilling holes is not easily achievable, e.g., rock
  • Where ground conditions are showing high KPA (ground strength) readings
  • Aesthetic reasons
  • Able to achieve heights higher than cantilever walls

1 – Masonry Block Wall

This wall construction is based on your standard hollow core masonry concrete blocks, which come in 100, 150, 200, and 250 series, which applies to the thickness. The length is always 400mm, as is the height, 200mm. Retaining walls are mostly constructed using series 200 and/or 250, which is the thickness in mm.

Masonry Block retaining walls are the most common wall used in conjunction with buildings, e.g. split level. This is due to various factors:

  • It is the only retaining wall that is built plumb
  • It has the ability, if tanked well, to have zero moisture egress
  • It has a smooth and appealing face to facilitate painting

But it is also the only gravity wall with the lowest design height, due to the vertical retaining bars anchored into a concrete footing.

The specifications for constructing block walls are that the height and relative surcharge, if any, is directly related to the size of the footing. A 1.0m high wall specifications, depending on ground KPA and surcharge could be:

  • Footing – 1.00m wide by 200mm thick with a 200×300 key under the front of footing
  • Reinforcing:
    – HD12 at 300 spacing lengthways along the footing
    – HD12 at 600 spacing across footing bent to go up into block
    – HD12 at 400 spacing horizontally in blocks with the top course having a reinforcing bar
  • Block fill – All blocks filled with block fill grout into 200 series blocks
  • A 2.0m high wall specifications, depending on ground KPA and surcharge could be:
  • Footing – 2.20m wide by 300mm thick with a 300×200 key under the front of footing
  • Reinforcing:
    – Two layers HD20 at 200 spacing each way
    – HD20 cross reinforcing bars on the top layer to bend up into blocks at 400 spacing, to be placed 30mm back from the back of 250 series blocks
    – Horizontal wall reinforcing HD16 at 400 spacing with the top course having a reinforcing bar
  • Block fill – All blocks filled with block fill grout

For walls that can be higher and/or with a surcharge, the specifications can be increased, e.g. the vertical HD20 reinforcing bars in the blocks can be closed up to 200mm centres. At 600mm centres the block is at 90° to the wall, and two reinforcing bars are placed in this column. It starts to become a block layers nightmare. The vertical bars only need to be 1.0m above the concrete footing, and once blocks are placed, the lap bars are installed.

A handy hint – reinforcing steel lapping distance is 50D, which is fifty times the steel diameter.

These vertical bars must be tied to the base of the starter bars coming out of the concrete footing. To enable this to be done, washouts need to be cut in the bottom course. It is also a good practice to do exactly what these cut-outs say, and that the inside of the blocks can be washed out of any debris prior to block filling. These washouts can be blocked off with timber and well braced, as the two metre plus concrete lift, applies an incredible force.

A couple of handy things to remember: a masonry block is basically a veneer and, on its own, is very weak, as it is made up of pumice sand and cement, and relies on the block fill to give the strength. Make sure the block fill grout is really flowable and makes its way to the bottom course, as if there is large steel closely placed, there can be restrictions.

NEVER use a pencil vibrator on block fill – maybe use a length of rebar or timber to help persuade the fill to move.

I know an Engineer who insisted that the contractor vibrate the block fill, which he did whilst watching, and the side of the blocks blew out!

It is also a good idea to have these walls designed by a Structural Engineer.

Finishing the top of a block wall on grade to follow the ground line is quite simple. Simply mark the line and cut the top course, then mortar on the caps. In situations like this, I do not like to see them stepped. There are also cases when a fence needs to be installed at the top of the wall. The easiest way is to grout 75mm or thereabouts, PVC pipes at the desired spacing into the blocks when grout filling.

Backfilling – Backfilling masonry block walls is a very important procedure, as there should be zero moisture passing through to the front of the wall. There are valid reasons for that:

  • The wall can often be inside a building with moisture causing dampness, mould, health issues
  • Also, if outside, the moisture can often create mould etc.

The procedure is as follows:

  • Make sure that when constructing the wall footing, the top is at least 100mm below any finished front level
  • Paint a generous coating of a tar-type product, e.g., Flintkote or Mulseal, to the back of the wall
  • Once sufficiently dry, place sheets of Harditex or similar over the Flintkote
  • Now place the perforated drain coil at the base and fill with drainage material, e.g. 50/20 or similar. Make sure it has no fines. The idea of the Harditex sheets is to protect the Flintkote from being scratched and therefore creating areas of little protection. A product better than Flintkote is Bituthene, which comes in a 1.00m wide roll and is adhesive. When backfilling and using a plate compactor, the vibrate should be disengaged within half a metre of the wall, so as not to add unnecessary load to the wall.

2 – Mass Block Walls

These walls have become ever more popular in recent years and are now manufactured in various forms and shapes. The main ones are:

  • Massbloc
  • Stonebloc
  • Interbloc
  • Magnum Stone

The nature of these blocks is that they are of various sizes and weights, ranging from an 800x400x200 weighing 150kg capping block to a 1800x600x600 standard wall block weighing 1500kg. As you can well imagine, an excavator capable of lifting these blocks is a very important part of the kit.

The construction principles for different types of blocs remain very much the same.

  • Footing – I have found when constructing these walls that the time spent on the accuracy of the footing is paramount.
    – Install boxing 150mm either side of the designated width of the base of the wall, and have the footing a minimum of 100mm compacted hardfill on firm ground. I have always found that applying a thin layer of GAP7 or fines over the hardfill and accurately screeding it, makes the bloc installation hassle free. The straightness of the boxing is irrelevant, whereas the level is paramount
  • Bloc’s – Set up a string line, say 100mm offset close to the base, and start placing the blocks with the relevant sized excavator.
    – As with all segmental walls, the base course is always the slowest. Once this course is placed and true to line, the next courses simply fall into place as the blocks generally are joined with cast-in-pigots. Always make sure to brush the blocks before the next one is lowered on.
    – Most manufacturers have a range of block shapes and sizes in stock, however, prior to construction, I would give them the plans and they will give you all the required blocks, complete with a detailed plan of what goes where. If at all possible, you don’t want to have to cut the blocks.
    – There is also a range of different bloc face textures to meet the clients’ preferences.
  • Wall Height – As with most segmental walls, reasonable heights can be achieved.
    – The bloc suppliers/manufacturers often have their own engineers and can design the wall for you.
    – What is common is the base bloc’s will be placed across the wall giving a 1200mm wide base, which could continue further up and decrease, depending on wall height.
    – These bloc’s are like a Meccano set and lock in every which way – very convenient.
    – For extra high walls and/or with high surcharges, short lengths of geogrids can be cast into the block when cast, which can then be connected to the required length of geogrid by means of bodkins.
  • Back-fill – Once again, just as important as with any retaining wall.
    – Megaflo or drain-coil at the base with drainage metal above.

As far as mass walls are concerned, I prefer these, as they are reasonably quick to construct, and a lot easier on one’s back.

Article provided by Nick Liefting
nlcontractors.co.nz

Published in the Training & Events section in WIRED Issue 69 / June 2023 by Fencing Contractors NZ

 

Read the other articles here:

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History in the making

This year history will be made at the 55th National Fieldays® in Hamilton, with UK Tornedo Fencing competition winners Mark Evans and Nic Quan to compete in the Fieldays® Silver Spades™ Doubles championship, as part of the prize package they won in July last year. Up to now, Silver Spades™ has only ever had resident Kiwis competing.

They are coming with a reasonable amount of competition success under their respective belts, having won the last five competitions entered. All I can say is Wow, come on Kiwis, start sharpening those spades and augers.

They arrive on June 5th and will stay in South Auckland for the first few days, to get familiar with the tools that New Zealand Fencing Competitions (NZFC) members will be supplying, and will go to our training camp for hands-on practice.

Both Mark and Nic, ages 42 and 35 respectively, have their own businesses. Mark lives in rural Herefordshire, West Midlands, and Nic lives further west in Hereford, not far from Wales.

They both use Tracked Protech Post Drivers, with drills and encounter varying ground conditions, e.g., soft clay, very hard limestone, chalk, sandstone, etc. They predominantly do farm fencing for farmers, lifestyle blocks, estates (like our stations), and National Trust.

Mark is married with two children and is bringing his 13-year-old son, Will, with him, whereas Nic lives with his fiancé and two-year-old daughter and is tying the knot this coming August – we wish them all the best.

For all three of them, it is their first time in New Zealand and they are keen to see our beautiful countryside and meet the guys and gals that fence it.

It is very much a whirlwind trip, with them leaving on June 26th. During their stay, we arranged for them to work on the fence lines with various contractors, which is what they requested.

When you see them at the Fieldays, certainly introduce yourselves, and if their terminology is baffling you somewhat, this might help:

KIWI ENGLISH 
Angle Post  Turning Post
Ground Floor
Paddock Field
Post Driver Knocker
Workers Lads (pronounced Luds)
Stay Strut
Truck Lorry
Manually working Grafting

 

Published in the Training & Events Feature in WIRED Issue 69 / June 2023 by Fencing Contractors NZ

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CONFERENCE23: Building Better Business

FCANZ Conference 2023 workshops looked at how to build a better business that will be consistently resilient through the good times – and the bad. Investigate how fencing contractors can contribute to the industry as a whole, as well as to the business (or businesses) they are involved in. Whether trainee, office manager, or business owner, every person involved in building even the smallest of fences has a part to play in how the industry is perceived and the success of the industry.

View Slides: Building Better Business

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Hazardous substances safety

What is a hazardous substance? 

What do you do to ensure safety when using the products in your work vehicle?

Do you understand the hazardous side of items you carry and the 

harm that may occur when exposed to them over time? Are they correctly labelled?  

What if there is a spill?

Do I have a Safety Data Sheet (SDS)?

Do I have an Emergency Plan?

These are just some of the questions you should ask yourself. We deal with hazardous substances every day in our job, from the diesel you put in your tractor to the staple gun gas you use. Most contractors carry approximately 6 hazardous substances to work. (You just went out to count, didn’t you?)

Health and Safety at Work (Hazardous Substances) Regulations 2017 

General Requirements

  • You must manage the risks caused by hazardous substances in the workplace 
  • You must keep an inventory of all hazardous substances used, handled, manufactured or stored in your workplace. This includes hazardous waste.
  • You need a Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for every hazardous substance supplied to your workplace. The SDS (or a condensed version of its key information, such as a product safety card) needs to be accessible to everyone who could be exposed to the substance in your workplace. 
  • Every container of hazardous substances in your workplace needs to be labelled. This includes containers of hazardous substances you produce in your workplace and hazardous substances you remove from their original containers.
  • Every hazardous substance in your workplace needs to be properly packaged. This includes hazardous substances in their original containers and hazardous substances that you repackage in your workplace.
  • Some substances and locations have new signage requirements. You need to maintain your signs and keep them up to date.
  • There are additional items on the emergency response plan to: cover any emergency that could happen in your workplace, list any training needed by people with responsibilities in an emergency and provide an inventory and a site plan.
  • Fire extinguishers must be clearly visible and readily accessible and have a rating of at least 30B.
  • Ensure every worker who handles hazardous substances receives the information, training, instruction and supervision that they need.

The Hazardous Substances and New Organisms (HSNO) Act is there to protect:

  • The environment.
  • The health and safety of communities and people.
  • To control, manage and prevent adverse effect of the hazardous substance and new organism.

Under the Act a Hazardous Substance is any substance that may exceed levels defined in the regulation for: 

  • Flammability
  • Corrosiveness
  • Chronic or acute toxicity
  • Eco toxicity
  • Explosive 
  • Integration with air or water to cause a hazard/risks substance

Compliance

To comply with the Act persons shall.

  • Store chemicals or hazard substance appropriately in correct containers and facilities.
  • Have current Safety Data Sheets available (SDS) for any chemicals or hazardous substances  on site.
  • Have a register that is updated regularly for current and held Hazardous substances on site.
  • List approximate quantities of Hazardous Substances on site.
  • Have in place an emergency procedure for Hazardous substances accidents or incidents.
  • Have an approved handler if so required to use and manage Hazardous substances used.
  • Have approved PPE equipment – glasses, respirator, gloves, overalls and hazard/risk control (spill kit), and fire extinguisher.
  • Approved method of discard or disposal.

Safety Data Sheet 

The SDS for items carried in your vehicle should be no more than five years old and be held in the front door or pocket of the driver’s seat. It should contain valuable information about storage, transportation, and medical advice what harm the product can have.

You can use the online calculator from https://www.hazardoussubstances.govt.nz/calculator  to get valuable information. The register should outline what you use and carry and be kept in an easily accessible place. You can update and it will tell you the controls required.

Have you ever actually read one to see the information it holds? 

You may change the way you use the product or swap it out for a more friendly one if you did.

Have you got the right signage? 

Signage is important to communicate what substance and how much of it you are carrying. The contents and quantities must be labelled on the container. The information is not only labelling the content but also in the event of an accident, it gives emergency services an idea of what they may be dealing with, and how to respond to a spill or fire 

NEVER store any substance in a drink type bottle. Many children have died from ingesting hazardous substances thinking it was water. Substandard labelling and storage can also lead to an incorrect substance being used, causing an explosion. 

List of HSNO Classification Codes

These are the Hazardous Substances and New Organisms Act classification codes. 

  • Physical Hazards (Classes 1-5)
  • Health Hazards (Classes 6-8)
  • Environmental Hazards (Classes 9)

HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCES REGISTER EXAMPLE

Location: Utility box

Signed: DR                Date 1/2/23                    Review Date 1/2/24

QTY = Quantity                SDS = Safety Data Sheet              PPE = Personal Protective Equipment

Product Name Solid Liquid Gas QTY Kg / L held  Size of container  SDS held
Y / N
Location & special storage requirement PPE req
Y / N
HSNO approval number and name of group, standard UN class and packing group  HSNO classification

(if available)

Aegis Super Tractor Oil Universal Liquid 60 20 Y  Store in a well-ventilated place away from ignition sources and strong oxidizing agents Y Approval Number: HSR002605  6.4A
Paslode – Stockade Fuel Cells Liquefied Gas 2 .50 Y Extremely flammable gas. Contains gas under pressure; may explode if heated. Keep away from heat / sparks / open flames / hot surfaces. Protect from sunlight. Store in a well-ventilated place. Y Lubricants (Low Hazard) Group Standard 2006  2.1.1A

Site Plans

 

You may need a site plan depending on the job you’re doing. 

Your emergency response plan needs to include a site plan. Make sure the plan is accurate and drawn to scale so that 

 

anyone who needs to use it can identify the distances involved and any other relevant information about the location.

The plan could show, depending on the nature of your operation, the following items:

  • a north point
  • all hazardous substance locations and tanks or processing equipment for hazardous substances
  • all buildings, entry and exit points to buildings, and any stairs or lifts
  • the location of the fire alarm panel on your building
  • the main electrical switchboard
  • the main structures, roads, and landmarks on your site
  • access points for emergency vehicles and any barriers or height limitations for vehicles entering the site
  • the location of the nearest water supply, such as tanks or hydrants
  • if you have water tanks on site, the size of the tanks
  • if the nearest hydrant is not visible on the plan, place an arrow on the plan (where the plan shows the road outside your site) to indicate its direction
  • the emergency evacuation meeting points
  • access and shut-off points for gas, water and electricity mains
  • any major electrical transformers, generators, or other potentially hazardous plant
  • shut-off valves for any piped gas or chemical processing systems
  • any specialised fire safety systems, such as mist or drencher systems
  • the location or direction of any high-risk neighbours such as:
    • schools or public meeting places
    • retirement homes or hospitals
    • petrol stations or neighbours that store large volumes of chemicals.

Other useful information to include on your site plan:

  • drains, marking the direction of flow, and any storm water grates on your site or on the road outside it
  • the location of spill kits, first aid kits, fire extinguishers and any other emergency equipment
  • the location of your SDS, inventory, and of the site plan.
  • Attach a copy of your site plan to your job documents

Have you got your spill plan items and card ready to go and do your staff know what to do?

Hazardous Substances Training Worksheet

Training to handle substances is vital, ensure you learn about the substances you use and what safe handling looks like: 

Training Topic  Yes/No Comments/ Assistance required
Is the employee aware of the harm that can be caused from each hazardous substance they use at work?
Does the worker Know which substance are incompatible and need to be stored separately?
Does the worker understand how to do the jobs required that involve hazardous substances?
Does the employee understand what control measures are in place at the workplace to reduce exposure and keep safe and healthy?
Does the employee know where the SDS (Safety Data Sheets) are kept, understand how to use them, and have access to them?
Is the employee aware of how to safely store, use or dispose of each substance they use?
Does the employee understand the pictogram symbols on hazardous substances containers?
Has the employee been provided with the correct safety equipment and PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)?
Has the employee been trained to use the safety equipment and PPE?
Does PPE fit correctly and is it in good repair?
Has the employee been trained to use the first aid equipment to deal with splashes and other incidents?
Does the employee know what to do in an emergency involving the substances they use?
Does the employee understand the importance of asking their supervisor questions if they are unsure about how to safely use or store a hazardous substance?

Personal Protective Equipment 

PPE for handling substances: Gloves, Eye protection, Respirator, and Protective clothing. 

Look at what you carry and see if you have the right items. Most importantly, use them!

How many of you wear a glove when pouring fuels? Did you know a lot of diesel handling makes your beer go flat? (Is it an old wives tail or will you try this out next time you’re holding the beer glass?) There are many more rules to comply with so ensure you check out what is required from the items on the back of your Ute to the shed stored ones or the tanker trailer you tow.

You are responsible to ensure all things safety about this area. Look for guides at WorkSafe to help grow your knowledge or ask a friend they may know a specialist that could help

Keep safe out there teams.  

Article supplied by RuralSafe

www.ruralsafe.co.nz

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What you should be doing with KPI’s and why

Business coach Daniel Fitzpatrick from Next Level Tradie looks at how you can use Key Performance Indicators to stay in control.

There’s never been a more important time to use KPIs. Because doing business is hard right now. Material and wage costs are increasing. Construction costs for new homes have risen by 9.6% over the last 12 months according to RNZ.

Disruption of schedules, jobs being shifted around all the time, downturn in the market in areas, a shortage of good staff, your existing team having more time off, and expecting more leniency.

All these things add pressure to your profits, cashflow, and day-to-day running of the business. 

KPIs give you the ability to keep a firm handle on all important aspects of your business. Without having to be involved in every detail. 

Truth is, tracking your performance numbers and your progress is the only way to make sure all your hard work will be worth it. 

Let’s jump in:

1. Use KPIs to make difficult conversations with staff easier

Ever had a team member who wasn’t performing, had a bad attitude, or was making too many mistakes? It’s easy for these issues to get kicked down the road. But the longer it goes on, the worse it gets. 

The best thing about KPIs is… It’s not personal. It’s just about what the business needs to be successful. When standards have been set, everyone knows what’s expected. And it’s clear if they are meeting the mark – or not.

For example, I once worked with a building company that needed more jobs. The sales rep was not getting the results. It was awkward, there were lots of excuses and the owners were almost resigned to accepting poor performance even though it was hurting their business.

We worked together on putting KPIs in place. Suddenly it was much easier to have those sales conversations. Combined with the right support, the focus shifted to meeting targets. Tracking how many new enquiries this week, how many quotes completed, followed up.

Conversion rates increased from 22% to 35% which everyone was happy about – including the rep who was on commission.

2. Use KPI’s to get staff into an accountability mindset – and fix underperforming

How to get your team to perform at their best? It’s one of the hardest things about being in business. Unfortunately, if you don’t provide the right structure and direction, even your star players won’t be able to deliver.

Does your team know if they are winning or losing each week? Is their definition of success the same as yours? Developing KPIs with your team will get everyone on the same page.

The trick is: KPIs only work if your team owns them. 

To get buy-in it’s most effective to get your staff to come up with their own performance goals. 

A drainlayer I have been working with recently had a lot of issues in his team of 7. Jobs were taking too long, gear was being forgotten, a lack of accountability when things went wrong.

He’d tried motivating them before without success so was skeptical about KPIs. But he brought it up at the next team meeting and gave each guy the responsibility of coming up with their own KPIs (with a little guidance). 

KPIs ranged from the apprentice turning up on time through to the foremen committing to finishing jobs on schedule. Results were starting to happen. Then one day he overheard his guys comparing their individual targets and how they were going to go about achieving them. That was when he knew it was really working.

Remember to only measure your staff on stuff they have influence over!

3. Don’t overcomplicate your KPIs – only use the ones you really need

I’m a fan of Xero and job-tracking software. I’ll tell you what though. All of those complicated reports aren’t going to help you much. 

KPIs are most effective when they are kept simple.  In each part of your business you should only have a few key things to focus on. 

For example, if you want to improve cashflow, then the main KPI to watch is how much cash you have in the bank after all bills are paid. 

The numbers you’re tracking must be identifiable. So you can use them to make smarter decisions. If not, what’s the point?

When I work with tradies to improve their profits, I put all their most important KPIs into one dashboard. Then it only takes around 20-30 minutes a month to see how we’re tracking. And gives them laser focus on where to concentrate to get the best results. 

This dashboard is a quick check. All the numbers are in one place. The last thing you need is to be hunting out info all the time!

One company I’ve been working with for the last 8 months has gone from significant losses to now making 10k-20k every single month. This success is mainly down to using the dashboard. Consistency is key.

4. Never base your KPIs off what others are doing 

A word of caution: Don’t look at what others are doing and think you should be doing the same. And definitely don’t measure success by how big your team is compared to theirs. Take it from me: A bigger team does not automatically mean a bigger profit. 

KPIs will vary depending on what stage you are at in your business. 

When deciding your sales target this will depend on where your break-even point is, your gross margins, and how much money you want to make for the year. It’s individual to you and always will be. 

If you’re a builder you won’t be getting the same margins as an electrician. If you complete high-end work your margins should also be higher than others in the same industry. It’s important to get crystal clear on where your margin should be specifically for your business. 

Wouldn’t you rather base your pricing and margins off concrete numbers that are right for you and your overheads. So you know that you’re making money on every job and know exactly where you’re winning and losing? 

5. Use KPIs to avoid expensive mistakes

By now you’ll have realised that not having really solid KPIs is costing you more than you thought. Lost margins, lost profitability, lost focus.

Knowing exactly what you are aiming for will help you avoid mistakes (or at least see things in time to make adjustments when needed).

You can avoid pricing incorrectly (usually this happens if you don’t know where your target margin should be) and avoid leaking profits by tracking jobs well throughout.

You can avoid booking too many jobs (if you haven’t worked out exactly how much work is optimal for your team). This also means no burning out your team (and reputation) with too much work and crazy deadlines.

You can avoid constantly not having money in the bank when you need it and sleepless nights with cashflow worries because you haven’t created a cash buffer or know what that should be.

These mistakes all cost you time, stress, and money. 

Bottom line?

Running a business without tracking your performance is like being the captain of a ship in the dark of night during a storm. Trying to avoid the rocks. Without a lighthouse to guide the way.  

 

Article written by Daniel Fitzpatrick
Next Level Tradie
www.nextleveltradie.co.nz

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Wayne’s way: Tie Backs

Moving on from stays, NZFC committee member and competition judge Wayne Newdick runs you through how he does tie backs. 

In summary, a breast plate is used for 2 or 3 reasons as opposed to a stay.

(1) The deflection in the fence is so slight a stay is not required

(2) The stay may interfere with or limit access for stock or vehicles

(3) There is no room and practically impossible to use a stay or conventional breast plate.

The method I am going to explain, I have used for over 15 years using various types of cables and wire.

I now use an 8mm galvanized rod which I make with eyes at each end.

One bit of advice I would give: If you are unsure when to use a stay or breast plate I always measure the deflection early on the fence construction, this is done by simply measuring 4mtrs past the angle in a straight line of the fence then measure back to the actual line (Figure 1).

  • 2 feet between the lines with a 2.1 angle and half a 1.8 half round will hold in all but wet ground.
  • 3-4 feet will hold in good ground.
  • To go beyond 4ft both angle and breast plate should be increased in size and length.
  • I would not go past 6ft with this method as there is simply too much loading.

Tie back

There are situations when you have little choice – especially on tracks where a conventional breast plate or stay will not work.

The method that I have found very successful is a tie back under the ground. A brief explanation as to how it works: 

A 1.8 post driven into the ground, 1.6mtrs in most soil types will require 1-2 tonnes to lift out, but 500kg applied horizontally to the top would move, bend or even break the post.

My method simply uses vertical lift (i.e.) 1-2 tonne and convert this to horizontal pull.

Photo 1: shows tie back in place and 450mm of half round in place and 1.8 Q2

Photo 2: is a look from above

Photo 3: is everything dug in place

Photo 4: shows the way this works. The 1.8 must be angled and the top leant to the angle

Photo 5: post driven down to the bottom of the mast

Photo 6: I use this device to drive the post up to 500mm underground.

Photo 7: this shows a gate type staple driven in 200 from the top.

Photo 8: this shows the top of the 1.8 driven 300-400mm below the ground.

I simply keep driving until I get 50-70mm of layback on the angle.

Summary

  • If the ground is soft simply increase the size of the 1.8 to 2.4-2.7 and the half round to 900 or so, angle 2.1-2.4 etc.
  • This system can be done with 4mm or 4.5mm wire or stainless with a minimum of two wraps and crimped (use two crimps because of the stock loading).
  • Don’t drive the angle with layback because this is obtained with relative ease when driving the tie back.
  • This system requires minimal digging, takes advantage of a postdriver and holds better than a conventional breastplate.
  • Give this a go you may be surprised.

Written by Wayne Newdick
Wayne Newdick is a notable top fencer, widely recognised in the industry for his high standards and ingenuity.

Published in the Training & Events Feature in WIRED Issue 68 / March 2023 by Fencing Contractors NZ

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How to: Cantilever Retaining Walls

In the fourth instalment of our Retaining Walls feature, Nick Liefting takes us through the complexities of Cantilever wall specifications.

In this article I would like to portray the specifications for Cantilever walls – showing:

  • Height
  • Embedment
  • Surcharge
  • Pole size
  • Footing size
  • Spacing
  • Railing thickness

Designs are based on firm clay material of 100KPa, with Poles to be founded in undisturbed or certified fill.

There are other factors that will alter the said specifications, e.g.:

  • Toe slope
  • Ground strength

I have given specifications going well beyond the non-consented height of up to 1.50m.  This is for a very good reason – I have often been asked for an indicative price for walls higher than 1.50m, so the client knows whether to pursue the job or has some idea of how much funding is required.

Fill

It is common to excavate for retaining walls, however, there are times when filling is required, due to undulations, or there may be a dip along the line.  Filling is carried out and then track rolled in to give a nice smooth line.  It must be mentioned here, that track rolled fill is not engineered/certified fill, which has been compacted with a sheepsfoot roller and tested.  So, the wall specifications must be calculated disregarding the fill depth.

Another handy piece of advice, is when a retaining wall that is, for example, 1.80m high, what is commonly done at the face of the wall is to build the ground up by 300mm creating, in effect, a toe slope.

A common area that is overlooked, or more so, misunderstood is the wall specifications when there is a toe slope involved.  With walls up to 1.50m high not requiring consent (unless surcharged), we (the contractor) become the designer.  I have seen some disasters in this area to the expense of complete wall replacement.

Toe Slope

We recently took over a job from a contractor and one of his walls (with a toe slope) had moved forward off plumb. (See diagram)

My simple instructions on how to calculate with toe slope in mind:

  1. Toe Slope at 1:1
  2. Visible retained height 1.20m
  3. 1.0m added retained height due to toe slope. This can increase or decrease as the toe slope changes.
  4. Effective retained height 2.20m
  5. Embedment as per table of specifications for 2.20m retaining.Equals 2.0m plus 1.0m (c) = 3.0m
  6. Footing diameter 500mm as per specifications for 2.20m retaining
  7. Pole – The size of the pole is 150 SED which is for 1.20m retaining as per specs.

The strength, in this case, is the added concrete encasement (C) whereby, the pole is acting as the reinforcement.

Retaining Wall Summary for Bored Concrete Foundations at 1.2m Pole Centres

Retaining Wall Summary for Driven Timber Poles at 0.9m Centres 

 

Article provided by: 

Nick Liefting 

Nick Liefting Contractors Ltd

nlcontractors.co.nz

Published in the Training & Events Feature in WIRED Issue 68 / March 2023 by Fencing Contractors NZ

 

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Managing employee pay relativity under the new minimum wage

The New Zealand Government announced in February that the adult minimum wage would increase to $22.70 per hour from 1 April 2023. 

This is an increase of $1.50 per hour from the current hourly rate of $21.20 and aligns with the 7.2% rate of Consumer Price Index Inflation in the year ended December 2022. 

The upcoming minimum wage increase only legally applies to the minimum rate of pay – there’s no requirement that every single employee receives a $1.50 wage increase.

However, you may have some workers who are already earning $22.70 an hour.  These employees will fall into the minimum pay rate bracket following the increase on 1 April. Despite there being no legal requirement to provide a pay rise here, this can raise issues about how more adept employees are paid compared to less qualified or experienced workers.

For example, an employee already earning $22.70, who suddenly makes the same income as a less skilled colleague, may feel resentful or frustrated that your company isn’t recognising their seniority or capability. Employees in this situation may be keen to negotiate a pay increase to maintain the relative pay difference.

In determining a strategy for managing pay relativity, it’s essential to manage affordability, properly understand workforce expectations, and manage them proactively.

Again, there’s no legal obligation to increase the pay rate for anyone earning at least $22.70 an hour already. But, with an eye on employee morale and workplace dynamics, you could consider the following if pay relativity comes up:

  • Increasing an employee’s $22.70 an hour wage by $1.50 an hour (to maintain the relative difference between their salaries and the minimum wage).
  • Increase an employee’s rate by an amount that keeps a differential rate and is reflective of individual ability and performance. You’d need to substantiate this increase through a performance review.
  • If remuneration increases are not affordable for your business at this time, are there other non-cash benefits you can offer your more experienced workers, such as mentoring or training and development opportunities?

All minimum pay changes must appear in the next pay slip after 1 April 2023. It’s possible to delay the increase; for example, if the administrative load makes it impossible to meet the deadline. But you’d still be required to backpay affected employees to 1 April as soon as possible. You should proactively communicate this to your staff if you find yourself in this situation.

As an employer, you’ll need to keep up to date with the latest minimum pay changes and pay all your employees at least the minimum wage. This year’s pay increases may introduce significantly greater wage costs to your business. In this case, you may also want to think about pricing strategies and budget forecasting to account for your higher wage and holiday pay obligations.  

Adult Minimum Wage

$22.70 per hour

This wage is the most commonly used by Kiwi businesses and applies to all employees who are 16 years of age or older, provided they do not qualify for the starting out or training wages.

Starting-Out Wage

$18.16 per hour

 Workers aged 16-19 who are entering the workforce for the first time.

  • this only applies to 16 and 17 year olds during the first 6 months of their employment. Or 18 or 19 year olds who have been on a benefit for 6 months or more prior to their employment and only for their first 6 months of continuous employment following them being on a benefit
  • it also applies to 16 – 19 year olds if they are doing at least 40 credits in a training programme just like the training minimum wage

Training Minimum Wage

$18.16 Per Hour

This category of wage applies to employees aged 20 years or over who are completing recognised/accepted industry training involving at least 60 credits in order to become qualified.

 

Published in Business, Health & Safety, Environment in WIRED Issue 68 / March 2023 by Fencing Contractors NZ